We Heart Rio!

What a city! When we passed through the first time we stayed in a hostel in Copacabana. Not the safest of areas, and up an incredibly steep cobbled hill that few taxi drivers would attempt. In fact when we arrived, our driver, who had been prepaid at the airport, refused. So I refused to get out of the taxi until he agreed to carry both packs, 15kg each, to the top. When we finally reached Casa Carioka our kooky Australian host, Alegra, scared us into not taking watches, cameras, anything outside with us.

But this time we stayed in Ipanema, almost a whole different city, clean, safe, busy. Gorgeous beach covered in buff, bronzed, beautiful boys in speedos, and that was just the straight ones. Organised for a great Brasilian guy, Orlando, to drive us around in a combi van listening to samba music all afternoon. Met Christ the Redeemer, as impressive as you imagine. Drove through the elegant but decrepit suburbs of Santa Teresa and Lapa, climbed the crazily tiled Lapa Stairs. Caught the cable car up Sugarloaf, so high we were in the clouds, gave us the heebie geebies just thinking how precariously we were perched with clouds whizzing by our heads. And to top off the day we sat on Ipanema beach and watched the sunset.

The Lapa Stairs

Sugarloaf

Paraty, colonial and hostel perfection

After a quick jump back across to the mainland with the same drunken captain, we bused further south to the colonial town of Paraty (Para-chi). Stayed in by far the most wonderful hostel we've been to, ToA Toa Pousada. Run by a fabulous couple, James, from the UK and Patricia, from Sao Paulo. Their home was a menagerie, gorgeous maine koon kitten with enormous paws, tiny orphaned puppy and emerald green humming bird on her tiny nest made of hair and litchen, right by the garden gate. James and Patricia put on wonderful bbq's and made such fabulous pineapple caipirinhas, it was hard to venture out.
The town is generally very quiet but was busy and filled to the brim for a Latino festival. We attempted to explore some of the 65 islands and 300 beaches that surround the town, but our tour boat was more interested in feeding us over priced food. And just to really amuse us it ran out of petrol on the way home and we were left adrift for nearly an hour with only a seriously off key portuguese singer for entertainment.
The following day we visited Trindade (Trindage), a hair raising bus ride 40 mintues south. Lazying on the beach, being fed grilled haloumi cheese and oysters by beach vendours that came to us, a hard life this travelling business!

Ilha Grande, mad monkeys and bad beverages

After a brief and nervous stay on Copacobana in Rio de Janeiro we caught a transfer 2hrs down the coast. A short boat ride on a tiny vessel, the captain drinking beer the whole way, to Ilha Grande, a stunning tropical island with a weather system of its own. A small sleepy fishing village whose numbers swell from 4000 to 25,000 in the high season, luckily it was low. Our hostel, Beirgarten, felt like a tree house with views out over the jungle. Spent a day at Lopez Mendez, a picture perfect beach with clear, cool waters, white sand, coconut palms and all. On the walk over we met teeny tiny monkeys who looked like ewoks gone mad. Nearly stepped on a beautiful but deadly black white and red coral snake.
Day 2 saw G come down with a mild tummy bug from a dodgy caipirinha, so a day of bed rest was needed. But by day 3 we were ready to face an 8km steep climb to view a waterfall. The sound of dying dinosaurs led us to a troop of 7 or 8 howler monkeys, with tiny baby clinging to mum high up in the very tops of the trees. Luckily we didnt upset them or they would have used their favourite defence mechanism and showered us in poo.
Brasil has introduced us to the concept of by the kilo restaurants. A truely great way of dining when on a budget and dont want to mess around trying to speak the language. They are like sizzlers on speed! And our hostel specialized in vegetarian, a welcome change from the masses of meat on offer usually.

Iguazu and the Devil's Throat cont'

Iguazu and the Devil's Throat

From Buenos Aires we flew over lush green endless jungle into Iguazu Falls on the Brasilian border. The falls are a thunderous amount of energy, the water spreads out across miles of flat country before plummeting down into the Devil's Throat. Thanks to Jen and Les we were slightly less than saturated by the gusts of water thrown up by its power. We took Lonely Planets advice and did a 7km 'nature' walk that was muddy, mosquito filled and boring. Stick to the falls! We did however see so much wildlife, toucans, crocs, goanna look alikes, ant eatery things and hundred of butterflys.

High Tea at the Alvear Palace

Afternoon tea at the Alvear Palace Hotel care of G's sister Steph. As perfect and old school as it gets. From the tiny cucumber sandwiches with the crusts cut off to the beautiful tea cups. Loved the take away cakes. Favourite bit was G accidentally eating a chocolate truffle though!