Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Valentine's in Huerquehue


When we finally reached the Chilean Lakes District we drove through country side that could have been European, lush green pine forests and fields, pretty little houses, huge green lakes. And perched on the side of a huge active volcano is Pucon, a busy little town that has an activity for everyone. From death defying 1km zip lines to sunbathing, hydro boarding to days at a spa.

Our hostel was like the quintessential bachelor pad, run by 2 guys, perpetually messy and disorganised. Despite various emails confirming our booking they didn't have our room when we arrived. But they sorted it out, eventually.

We wanted to climb the volcano, the lure of it was too much, at night you could see the red glow of the lava against the stars. But the gods were against us, for 2 days we woke up at 5am, got dressed, made breakfast, made our packed lunch, and waited. Waited for the sun to come up and show us whether or not we could climb, any cloud what so ever meant no go. And both days it was almost completely under cloud. Damn ye gods!
So our alternative was to head to the totally unpronounceable Huerquehue National Park. We hiked for 8hrs, through dense lush forests, filled with vivid pink fuschia shrubs, up a huge mountainside to reach the very top and suddenly be surrounded by towering monkey puzzle trees. And at eye level wild black currant bushes and endless fuschias. Greenblue lakes, crystal clear. So fresh and easy.


The next day we braved the cold water and went white water rafting. Far superior to Mendoza's murky waters, this was pale green and clear. And this was big water, the first rapid was less rapid and more waterfall. And incredibly fun! Learning all the commands in Spanish was interesting, mostly trial and error. We got out and walked around one rapid, a grade V, and looking back at it we were glad we hadn't had to brave it. We did however have to jump 5m back into the river. But we survived.













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Friday, February 10, 2012

Green Bikes and Vineyards








Inland from Valparaiso is Santiago, and once again we were caught by surprise by the heat. Trudging through the underground with packs on was no fun at all. Luckily our hostel was situated right above the underground system, and overlooked Plaza de Armas, the main square. We didn't plan on staying here long, but we underestimated how many people flee the city on the weekends so when we went to book our bus tickets south, they were all full up. So we found things to do.

We took a tour of Concha y Toro, one of Chile's biggest wine producers. We weren't expecting much but it was fantastic, lots of great wines to try and cheeses to eat. A merry way to spend an afternoon.

We went on a bike tour of the city focusing on the food markets,  http://www.labicicletaverde.com/ . Santiago is a surprisingly bike friendly city, with lots of big green parks. A great way of seeing the city and trying a few local dishes.










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Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Back on the Pacific





Life is tough

We hadn't seen the ocean since the desolate deserts of Paracas in Peru, so it was such fun to reach the bright Pacific once more. To get there we crossed the border from Northern Argentina into Chile, an ordeal almost as bad as Australian customs. Everyone piled out of the bus, everything searched, x-rayed, sniffer dogged, then all piled back onboard. Chile is surrounded by natural barriers, the Andes, Patagonia, and the Pacific, so it has very few of the diseases that surrounding countries have, and it tries hard to keep it that way.

We spent a few cramped nights in Vina del Mar, a very touristy town, filled with bad restaurants and casinos. The main excitement being the wild fires burning just over the hill. No one seemed too bothered by them except for us, but the huge clouds of dirty black smoke billowing over the hill made for a spectacular back drop.

We moved on the the nearby town of Valparaiso. Set on a series of rolling hills, steep cobbled roads and old fashioned funiculars lead to streets filled with corrugated iron houses painted in bright colours and covered in beautiful graffiti. We spent a day or two just wondering and relaxing.










Liquid chocolate and churros dipped in dulche de leche






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